Kerim Ölçer is the 59-year-old owner of the
Olympos Restaurant. He says that his mother's grandfather came to Çirali
to cultivate wheat. From the 1940s to the 1970s there were only three
families who lived here: the families of Göçmen Ali Bey, Ulupinarli
Kocaramazan, and Yörük Abdurrahman Çavus. He said, the Ulupinar Creek,
which used to flow between Mount Omurga and Yanar, changed its course
during the flood of 1949. There used to be a lake to the northeast of the
city which extended from the cemetery to Karaburun. Some know-it-alls,
lead by the local leaders, decided one day to drain the lake. As a result,
the fish died, it became impossible to cultivate sesame, and the water
fowl left the area. The forest was chopped down, the swamp was likewise
drained and replaced by orange orchards in the hopes that they would
provide a stable income. Years later, the area had almost no forests left
and the barren lands were turned over to the Treasury.
Çirali is between two environmentally protected sites, one nature
preserve to the north and one archaeological site to the south. During the
1980s Çirali embarked on a relatively unhealthy urbanization process where
illegal construction became rampant. The local officials even opened a
real estate agency and began to sell land that actually belonged to the
Treasury, apparently with impunity. For these sales it was irrelevant that
the properties purchased were without titles and construction licenses.
The fact that the purchase was obviously illegal - causing many a court
case between the purchasers and the Treasury - also appeared to have no
negative impact on the prices of the property. All that mattered was the
piece of paper received from the village chief confirming the right to
usage of the property.
Given the current mentality pervasive in the government, individuals
who blatantly misuse their power to "sell" land that belongs to the
Treasury, or those that contribute to the destruction of the environment
are highly unlikely to be punished. In fact, unbelievable as it might
seem, they are at times rewarded for their activities to boost the tourism
sector. The locals remember a case three years ago. Kemer municipality
decided to demolish buildings that were too close to the beach, offering
Treasury lands further inland to those businesses whose buildings would be
demolished. However, the planned demolition was blocked by higher
authorities. During various other construction projects, a wooded hill on
the way to Çirali was completely leveled. Sand from the Çirali beach was
used in the construction, changing the geography of the beach where the
Caretta caretta nest. Power politics and greed, which seem to blind people
to any other interests, clearly worked to the detriment of the environment
here. Still, some environmental non-governmental agencies like the Natural
Life Preservation Association continue to attempt to pressure government
agencies to protect the fragile balance of the environment in the area.
Yet, some villagers and outsiders try relentlessly to get the
government to annul the preservation status of the area. There are of
course other villagers that understand that succeeding could have negative
consequences for the village. Kerim Olcer knows that if the area loses its
preservation status small entrepreneurs will be crowded out by large scale
investment, profit oriented businesses will wreak havoc on the
environment, and living there will lose whatever charm it still has. He
speaks with nostalgia about the good old days when there were so many more
Caretta caretta that came to nest in Çirali, so many more fish and birds
in the lake. He says that the villagers don't like him much because of his
views. "They fine the ones that build on Treasury property," he says
angrily, "why don't they also fine the ones who sell the property to begin
with?" But so many have recently relocated to Çirali, in hopes of
"purchasing a piece of heaven on earth."
There are, however, some responsible individuals that respect the
environment and are dedicated to preserving and protecting the area. Feza
Toker is one of these activists. Formerly a physician, Feza goes down to
the beach at the crack of dawn every day during the nesting season of the
Caretta caretta, observes the tracks of the turtles and their nests, and
reports his findings to the Association. Another activist Safak, now a
teacher, formerly a physician as well, teaches painting in exchange for a
very modest lifestyle and the satisfaction she gets from the glimmer in
the children's eyes. Ayse and Selahattin Kalipci rent and operate Flora
Bed and Breakfast. They are realizing their lifelong dream of creating a
Mediterranean Garden with flora characteristic of the region.
Like the others, Ayse Dirikman Kalipcil explained, "We wanted to live a
quiet life away from the crazed masses, so we came to Çirali." The way she
describes the four seasons in Çirali makes you understand: "You smell
different scents depending on whether you are going up or down Yanartas.
At night, you see the stars or the moon, during the day the scent of
lavender plants accompany you. December and January is the best time to
hunt for mushrooms. The girls of the village grab a hold of their baskets
and head towards the old mill. As they cross the creeks and merrily eat
their oranges in the shade, you should keep walking. Make sure the creek
is to your right. Along the path that goes through the forest, you must
pay attention to the wild flowers, wild orchids and other flowers. And
let's not forget about the Manisa tulips and various other beautiful
flowers. During February, March, and April, you can feast on local foods
cooked with a mixture of local herbs. By this time, the orange trees will
have stopped producing fruits and started blooming anew. The smell is
dizzying. If you go to the Olympos forest around this time, you can smell
the bay leaves. Every little corner here has unbelievable plant cover. The
green grass, daffodils under the winter sun, butterflies and quiet. This
is just the time to go for a swim in the local creeks. There is a canyon
on the other side of the mill which has many small pools and waterfalls.
After you splash about in the water, you can feast on the picnic that you
brought along in the shade of a maple tree. Then you can make your way
through the pines and keep the trout that swim about in the other pools
company. After you reach the top of the hill, you will see a magnificent
view of Tahtali and Çirali. How about a nap under the pine tree with the
best view? Now you are further above Yanartas, at the Eternal Flame Point.
In May, everything starts blooming. Spring showers bring new scents to
your nose. It's now time for the beach. In June, other summer plants begin
to bloom. As you watch the magnolias under the moonlight in Olympos, you
can't help but think that Orpheus must be taking a walk somewhere in the
area as well. The oregano plants are in full bloom. Until the colors begin
to change with the rain in the fall, your eyes can feast on all shades of
green and yellow."
Who can resist this paradise? Anyone here will tell you that they love
nature. Ignorance, however, causes even those that love nature to harm it.
It seems that as a result of the underground water pollution caused by
lack of planning for population growth, the fresh and delicious water that
replenishes the wells in the gardens will soon become a luxury. One thing
that might be considered to preserve the environment and encourage tourism
could be setting up responsible camping sites in the area. The Green Point
in Çirali, with its giant pine trees, caravans, and hammocks, is an
excellent example of this sort of an endeavor.
I will never forget the night when I was waiting to take pictures of
the nesting turtles. The waves were coming in like hordes of silver in the
moonlight. One Caretta caretta suddenly appeared in this silver wave.
Afraid that I would scare it off, I started waiting for it to nest from a
50 meter (150 ft.) distance. But suddenly, the giant turtle disappeared
out of sight into the sea. I was very sad because I though that I had
scared it away. The following day, Feza took a look at the tracks and
concluded that the tortoise dug out two nests but left because it did not
find the sand suitable for nesting. Even though it is illegal,
construction companies continue to take the sand from the beaches, thereby
destroying the delicate composition that has formed over millions of
years. It is a real tragedy that as a result of the irresponsible
construction companies the Caretta caretta have to slowly abandon the
beaches that have been their nesting ground for millions of years. Dead
fish that wash ashore, birds that leave their natural habitats, turtles
that leave the beach where they were born without being able to lay their
eggs are all bad omens for those that are concerned about the environment.
The day we realize that keeping the delicate balances of the environment
is an integral part of keeping humankind healthy, we will have begun a
humane existence on this borrowed planet. |
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Kerim Ölçer's family was one of the first to
settle in Çirali and appreciate its environment. They support the
environmentalists against landowners' efforts to lift the protected status
of the area.
The sacred Mount Tahtali rises at 2,366 meters
(7,762 ft.) and is snow-capped during the winter. Selahattin Kalipcil.
The Natural Life Protection Association is
determined to protect the Caretta caretta. They carefully note the nests
and put protective cages around them to protect them until the young begin
hatching.
The Ulupinar region is rich in rivers. You can
escape the scorching heat in the summer by walking along the Ulupinar
creek. You may even want to take a swim in the icy cold waters of the
small pools that you might come across.
Between the Çirali Beach behind the marina and
the Ulupinar Creek is a forest. After drinking from the ice-cold
fountains, you can begin climbing up the bed of the creek to arrive at the
canyon farther up.
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